Introduction

Built more than 450 years ago on the site of the ancient Mayan city of T’ho, Merida is the capital of the state of Yucatan. “The White City,” as it is often called, probably derives its nickname from the whitewashed facades of colonial era buildings. Though the name could have easily derived from the traditional garb of locals the pleated guayabera shirt worn by men and lacy huipil dress worn by women.

The city makes a good base from which to explore the Mayan archaeological sites of Chichen Itza and Uxmal. Pink flamingo sanctuaries and swimmable crystal clear cenotes (sinkholes), some found in caves with centuries-old stalactite formations, are two of the natural attractions of the Yucatan Peninsula that are easily accessible from Merida.

During the late 19th century, the city flourished thanks to the profitable henequen (or sisal) industry. In fact, the entire peninsula is dotted with plantation-style haciendas built in henequen’s heyday. The 17th-century Hacienda Yaxcopoil, on the road to Uxmal, has been conserved and converted into a museum. Many other haciendas house luxury boutique hotels. The wealthy hacendados, or landowners, built the palatial homes you can still see today along Paseo de Montejo, Merida’s tree lined main boulevard.

Quite unusual for Mexico is Merida’s system of naming streets (calles). Except for a few major avenues, most streets are numbered rather than named, with even ones running north to south, and odd ones east to west. Addresses are written as follows: Calle 57 No. 485 x 58 y 56, which means “485 57th Street, between 58th and 56th streets.” You’ll also see pictographs designating certain streets, a system devised in colonial times to bridge the language barrier between the Spanish and the indigenous.

Merida’s weather is hot in summer until predictable afternoon rains lead to comfortable evenings. It is cooler in winter, with occasional nighttime winds making it chilly enough for a sweater.