Introduction

For most people, Guerrero Negro is a pick-up-gas-and-supplies spot on the way to the world-renowned calving site of the gray whale in Laguna Ojo de Liebre.

The shallow bay is a couple of miles south of town on the Trans-peninsular via dirt road. Here, too, you will find the immense labyrinth of dike ponds created by Exportadora de Sal (ESSA), one of the world’s largest salt mining companies. If you make reservations, you can get a free tour of the saltworks.

During the winter months when the whales are calving, whale-watching tours are available at the bay; camping is also popular in high season. In the off-season, there are still many critters to see.

The Vizcaino Biosphere Reserve, a six-million acre national park, is home to the endangered berrendo (desert pronghorn), a speedy antelope that survives without drinking water by eating succulent plants.

In town, stately ospreys have taken over the light posts, and pelicans and shorebirds thrive. Below the town, the highway cuts southeast passing through the delightful oasis of San Ignacio. Its old Jesuit mission is one of the most beautiful on the peninsula.

You can dine, shop and stay at Malarrimo (T. (615) 157 1193; www.malarrimo.com), Guerrero Negro’s one-stop shop for food, lodging and just about everything else. This hotel/RV park/seafood restaurant/ecotourism outfit is at the entrance to town.