Introduction

Some 75 mi/120 km southeast of Veracruz is Catemaco, a small fishing village that’s home to a 10-mile-wide (16-kilometer-wide) lake. A boat tour takes in two islands: Isla de los Changos and Isla de Agaltepec. The first is populated by a colony of red-cheeked mandrill monkeys brought from Africa by the University of Veracruz, which is involved in simian research.

Catemaco is famed as Mexico’s witchcraft center and hosts an annual convention of witches. Here you can have a spell cast or a curse removed, or buy do-it-yourself potions.

Located 11 mi/7 km from Catemaco, Nanciyaga Ecological Park lets visitors admire regional wildlife, bathe in clay and aromatic herbs, take a dip in a pool of mineral water, consult with a curandero (witch doctor), or enjoy a pre-Hispanic-style steam bath in a temazcal. The park is accessible by car or motorboat. T. (294) 943 0808.