Introduction

Mexico’s fourth largest city is perhaps its most characteristically Spanish, with lovely, typically colonial architecture giving it great dignity and charm. Set in the foothills of the Sierra Madre, Puebla is flanked by four of Mexico’s best-known volcanoes — Popocatepetl, Iztaccihuatl, Malinche and Citlaltepetl, also called Pico de Orizaba.

Puebla was settled after the conquest as a Spanish stronghold between the coast and Mexico City. Three centuries later a ragtag Mexican army of 2,000 men defeated 6,000 invading French troops in the famous Battle of Puebla on May 5, 1862. This is the origin of the Cinco de Mayo holiday and the reason streets throughout Mexico bear that name.

Famous for hand-painted Talavera tile, Puebla was the first city in New Spain to master the art of decorating and glazing fire-baked clay, an art introduced by the Spanish, who had in turn learned it from the Arabs. Spanish tile makers took up residence in Puebla and set a standard of excellence that prevails to this day. You’ll see tiles adorning many churches and other buildings around town.

The city’s long history as a pottery center actually began before the Spaniards arrived. In his “True History of the Conquest of Mexico,” historian and conquistador Bernal Diaz de Castillo noted the “excellent manufacture of earthen-ware of three colors — red, black and white,” adding that when the conquerors dined with Emperor Moctezuma, service was on earthenware from Cholula.

The “City of Tiles” is about 80 miles from Mexico City via an excellent toll road. You can take the toll highway one way and the longer free route the other; the scenery on both is lovely. First-class buses make the trip departing from Mexico City’s airport and other bus terminals (Estrella Roja, T. (55) 5130 1800). There are also 15-minute flights from Mexico City, as well as a Puebla-San Antonio, Texas, flight via Aeromexico, and a Puebla-Monterrey, Nuevo Leon, flight via Mexicana.