Introduction

Some 60 miles (or 96 kilometers) north of Mexico City lies Hidalgo state’s best known attraction, Tula, the ruins of a Toltec city known for the giant 15-foot stone warriors, called “atlantes,” that stand atop its main Pyramid of the Morning Star. According to indigenous Nahua legend, the great Quetzalcoatl founded Tula at the beginning of the 10th Century AD and it quickly became the prosperous capital of the powerful Toltec kingdom. The archaeological zone is open 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., except Mondays.

Hidalgo state’s own little Taxco, Real del Monte, also known as Mineral del Monte, is located just 6 mi/9 km from the state capital of Pachuca. The narrow cobblestone streets of this fairy-tale-like colonial-era mining town are lined with pastel-colored shops selling silver jewelry (products of the town’s two active silver mines) or pastes, meat-filled turnovers (Cornish pasties) introduced to the region in the 1800s by miners from Cornwall, England, who are also credited with introducing Mexico to its national sport; Pachuca is home to Mexico’s oldest soccer team.

Central Hidalgo’s mountainous zone is home to El Chico, declared the country’s first national park 80 years ago. This area is close to the mining town of the same name, situated 12 miles northeast of Real del Monte. Also toward the northeast and 18 miles away is Huasca, a pleasant town famous for its parish church, pottery and mountainous surroundings.

A few miles outside of Huasca you can visit San Miguel Regla and Santa Maria Regla, two impressive mining haciendas from the vice-regal era that function as hotels. Hacienda San Miguel Regla (T. (771) 792 0102; www.sanmiguelregla.com) was built in the 18th century by Pedro Romero de Terreros, the richest man of his day. Today it is partially submerged under the waters of an adjoining dam, creating an extraordinary architectural sight.

Close to Santa Maria Regla are the amazing Prismas Basalticas, a 164-foot gorge with basalt prisms, some more than a 100 feet high, as well as 98-foot waterfalls nearby.